View Full Version : Welding copper...
Araich
08-15-2004, 05:24 PM
Has anyone any pointers about welding copper? Can TIG be used? Can it be gas welded? What is the strongest method for copper sheet (2-3mm) where the edges meet, and there is no overlapping.
Also, anyone had experience with copper plating? I'm curious about taking a few steel works down this path. Is it possible to do yourself?
kestonh
08-15-2004, 09:04 PM
I've never had any luck with straight copper- usualy ends up as a molten pool. I've been able to braze some copper plate.
Here's a great resource I use when I come across unnkown alloys of stuff- I looked up copper welding (http://www.key-to-metals.com/Article29.htm) and it looks like it is possible.
I haven't plated anything in years, but I do know that steel + copper + mild sulfuric acid will copper plate the metal.
fused
08-16-2004, 12:35 AM
Brazing seems like an obvious choice if there's no special requirement for an
absolute color match. I shared a studio many years ago with a guy who had
some welded steel pieces copper plated and they turned out beautiful. Torch
cut edges were particularly nice.
It also seems logical that if you use very thick copper that a TIG should do well,
but copper is a very expensive choice where I live.
Welding shops here used to sell what was called an "aluminum brazing rod" which
was probably a silver alloy combo, melted around 850ºF, joined brass, copper,
aluminum or steel in any combination, and usually made joints as strong as the
base meteal. It used a liquid flux and though it wasn't economical, it did a good
job on odd applications.
Howdy,
I've had 2 pieces copper plated over the years, under the impression they would'nt rust, alas, they did.
I'm at the moment looking for someone to copper plate a work, though getting knockbacks after I say I'm a sculptor. Two places I contacted have had bad experiences with our lot:)
And I've been yakking with these people
axolotl (http://www.axolotl.com.au/)
Looks promising, still deciding, they have a premises in N.S.W, if you haven't heard of them already...
warren01
08-16-2004, 01:43 PM
Now when you are talking about welding copper you have some sizes listed
"What is the strongest method for copper sheet (2-3mm) where the edges meet, and there is no overlapping." ----------so looking at in inches little more that a 1/16th and less than 1/8th. For welding that thickness TIG would be the strongest.
Would have to preheat to 600 degree F before welding and use a lot of amps and use a copper rod. If you are really good with TIG doing aluminum about the same method but you are in a hot enviroment. The weld can be worked.
If the piece does not have to have a lot of structure strength the easiest is to use a phos-copper rod with oxy/acytlene torch. A lot like brazing but less temp. The phos-copper rod would give you a copper color if not sanded. If sanded would leave a dark nickle color. Will patina the same as copper. I use the phos-copper rod in most of my copper work. Brittle and can not hammer or bend after welding.
Welding can be done with torch but very delicate and the whole copper pieces have to be glowing red -------- again very hot enviroment. The hardest of all to do.
Then brazing also works if you want and good with brazing you can attach to steel but than you have the possibility of galvanic corrosion.
jwebb
08-16-2004, 11:09 PM
I have some old welding books, from the 1940's, one by Popular Mechanics which includes a chapter on "How to Build Your Own Arc Welder", and another by Victor. I love these old books because they contain many real do-it-yourself tips - though many of them are technologically out of date. One technique suggested for welding an un-lapped seam like you describe in copper is to lay a piece of welding rod (that'd be actual copper rod if you want the color to match, or bronze rod if that's not important) along the joint or seam and "flow it into place with the torch". They also suggest using a neutral flame and "a tip one or two sizes larger than for steel of the same thickness". I can't say I've done this, but it sounds like a zen experience.
jsimms
08-17-2004, 01:56 PM
Only de-oxidized or oxygen free copper can be readily tig or mig welded. Stick with uns c10200 or c12200! Most copper pipe and tube is c122 and tigs nicely. In sheet form, be sure to use c10200 rather than c11000.
Most plating shops can plate with copper or brass.......
john
Araich
08-17-2004, 05:18 PM
Thanks all. You have given me enough to get going with. Down the line I'll post my experiences.
PeterG
08-17-2004, 07:18 PM
Re:Copper Plating
I tried to get a large sundial plated a few months ago but was told that the sculpture needs to be broken down into "simple" shapes as there are difficulties with plating into tight corners and "shadowed" areas. The company suggested that I submit sketches to them next time BEFORE I start welding so they can suggest the shapes it should be broken down in to.
Good Luck
Blacksun
08-22-2004, 08:11 AM
Thanks to all for the initial inquiry on copper welding and all the informative answers.... I'm primarily a stone carver, but have had a couple of ideas for some copper sculptures... Now I have enough info to begin experimentation on the constructions... Thanks again! :)
tfohl
11-10-2004, 05:33 PM
A good reference on the basic parameters of welding copper and alloys can be found on
p://www.brazing.com/techguide/procedures/copper_welding.asp
Good luck,
Tim Fohl
Araich
11-11-2004, 02:54 PM
http://www.brazing.com/techguide/procedures/copper_welding.asp
Thanks tfohl, that's a good link.
http://www.brazing.com/techguide/procedures/copper_welding.asp
Thanks tfohl, that's a good link.
Araich,
What did you end up doing with the copper? Are you going to Shanghai, or just shipping your work? Congratulations on that.
JAZ
Mordachai
03-23-2005, 08:34 PM
I know this is an old thread, but I thought I'd throw my $0.02 in.
I have welded Silicon Bronze to copper before using Silicon bronze wire in a MIG. set with neg. polarity and a pretty low amperage setting. I have welded #4 and #8 copper ground wire as well as 1/2 Copper rod to Silicon Bronze, and the welds have been great.
|M|
iron ant
03-23-2005, 08:50 PM
master blacksmith Ivan Baily,from Atlanta,fabricated a big railing full of sea critters and plantasfor a mall in Florida.I think he abrased most of it.It was unreal,just happened to be lucky enough to see it in progress.the fish and plants were hammered in forms,but parts of it were forged out of several inch solid round.
this is a bit late but joining copper with oxy acy is a piece of cake with silver solder. Called sil-phos rod here in NZ. varying ammounts of silver affect hardness and price!
Essential to use a good liquid flux and away you go a very strong join.
This will also patina up quite nicely.
mixergirl
03-20-2006, 07:55 PM
Has anyone any pointers about welding copper? Can TIG be used? Can it be gas welded? What is the strongest method for copper sheet (2-3mm) where the edges meet, and there is no overlapping.
Hi - I have recently been welding large formed copper shapes that meet as a butt join - 1.6mm sheet (thinner some places due to hammering) I am using TIG - plain argon gas and no filler rod! The deoxidized copper does not move and flow nicely and tends to end with a bubbly finish if over heated. I am extremely patient with a slow and long heatup before increasing heat to start molten pool - keeping the tip at a good back ward angle pushes the molten pool along very smoothly and quickly - leaving an incredibly neat weld (slightly concave) If I blow a hole I patch with the same copper I am welding and start the heat a good distance away from the hole as this copper will melt and flow very fast. PATIENCE in the initially preheat (just with the pedal at half) will pay a thousand fold! I will post some photos next week illustration the finished weld.
But wait there's more - copper doesn't buckle while you are welding it!!! brilliant - I'll never go back to steel (unless I have to).
cheers
forgot to mention the antidote for the awful illness you can get from inhaling copper fumes ( similar to lead poisoning ; acute anxiety, depression, suicidal, as well as the usual bad flu like symptoms that go with fume fever )
prevention is best; (a) dont do it. (b) get someone else to do it (c) suck the fume away at source and wear a fume respirator.
if you get it try big doses of chelated zinc and bigger doses of vitamin C help but takes a few weeks.
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