Show us your tool

[Scout]

I'd like to see everyones favorite tools and or instruments. I've never seen stone carving tools before. The best tools of course are the ones we made ourselves or modified to fit our needs. Will anyone show theirs? Landseer showed us some he copied from the old stone masons and adjusted to meet his needs. Show us yours. Better yet show us you using them in your studio. I love seeing other artist's studios. (I was tired of seeing the manic topic up there.) Scout

[Merlion]

I'd like to see everyones favorite tools and or instruments. (I was tired of seeing the manic topic up there.)

Huh, I suppose you mean sculpting tool, do you? :) Well, from my tool-box, here are the small tools I commonly use.

The stainless steel spoon has edges sharpened to help in my plaster carving. One of the usages of the screw driver is to help break off plaster molds from the casts. For this purpose, I find it better than a chisel. I put red band around these tools as I used to take them along to a part-time class.

[Merlion]

And, for what it is worth, here are the power tools that I commonly use.

I think there's nothing unusual in these. The brands are a mixed bag of Makita, Bosch, and Black&Decker.

The side grinder is unbranded, very cheap, but very noisy. This is fixed with a sanding disc. I have another Markita side grinder fixed with a diamond saw-wheel. This saves me from changing wheel/disc.

[Merlion]

While I'm in the mood, I'll continue to take and post one more photo. (But apparently there's not much interest. No response. :( )

These below are the common support, tables, etc. that I often use. I didn't make any of these.

I find the Black&Decker work-horse-clamp on the left most useful. It gives a sturdy support, and can clamp like a large wood vice. Unfortunately B&D made the top out of compressed wood-chip board, and the corners are rotten after being left in a bit of rain. I can't find a replacement. Probably B&D has discontinued it.

The other furniture items are from Ikea. They have a big shop in their own building in Singapore.

The two round things are turntables. I use turntables nearly all the time when clay modeling because of my eye defect.

[anne (bxl)]

my favorite tool...

[Merlion]

Sorry Anne. Is that plaster you are showing?

Talking about plaster, many of us use it very often of course. So it means I use this container and scoop very often for my plaster, see below. They are perfect for the job (as they are made to contain and scoop uncooked rice. Rice is of course our stable food).

Scout, I just notice you were originally asking to see stone carving tools. Sorry I don't do stone carving, and seem to have usurped your thread. If you like to get back to your original question, I can disappear from this thread.

[anne (bxl)]

no, merlion, just my working hands...

[JasonGillespie]

I'd have to agree with anne (bxl)...my hands are by far the best tool I've got. I use them until it is impossible to do otherwise.


Since the request is to see the tools of our trade...here are my second favorites.

[Merlion]

Jason,

Is the second one from the left a plumb line to check vertical? I suppose this for checking standing statues.

Gosh! If this is among the group of favorite tools, you must be sculpting such statues very often.

[RCFA-Raven]

This is an old paddle tool a friend of mine loaned me. He uses it to release molds and it's been used by maybe 1000 or more people over the past 30 years. I know it is a simple paddle tool but for some reason it has a wonderful feel to it and every time I use it on my sculpting I produce my best works.

[Scout]

Merlion, thanks for the show of tools. I love to see what people use to create their art. I'd also like to see what everyone looks like.

Anne, good answer! I have over used mine over the years, they hurt. Take care of yours.

Jason, yes, I use mine until they just start shouting at me to stop.

Raven, I have a favorite tool too. I think it is a cuticle stick, made of stainless steel. I use it a lot on small pieces. It can also drive me insane. Scout

[HappySculpting]

I love to see what people use to create their art. I'd also like to see what everyone looks like.



Ya, me too. I'll start a new thread and see who all will post some pics...

~Tamara

[Landseer]

Oh boy Merlion, not a Black and Decker jig saw!
I have a Bosch jig saw and love it- runs real smooth like a sewing machine but I never thought the day would come I'd spend $150 for JIG SAW!

As far as tools, I use several tools from this set a LOT but most the one on the bottom I really like. I have some wood tools and a couple of wire tools too.

[Merlion]

Oh boy Merlion, not a Black and Decker jig saw!
I have a Bosch jig saw and love it- runs real smooth like a sewing machine but I never thought the day would come I'd spend $150 for JIG SAW!

Why? I use my Black & Decker jig saw quite a lot, as I have been sawing many sheet profiles in aluminum and plastic, and sometimes wood. It has given me good reliable service by now I think a year and a half.

I certainly didn't pay US$150 for it. I got this as a free-extra when I bought, I think, my B & D power drill.

In future, when I buy power tools, I may just go for Makita.

[sculptor]

each "job" want a different tool at different stages of completion

Bucky Fuller ince told me that the brain is the key component in any tool kit.

so, the job wants a specific tool for completion of each phase, and My mind needs to interpret the jobs desire, and think to the phisical side of the available tool kit, and find as near a match to the jobs desires as the phisical tool kit allows, then the hands get the tool, feel its balance and heft and (hopefully) deftly apply its strengths to the task at hand
----over the years, my tool kit has grown till it needs it's own shelter, which by becoming mother to the other tools, becomes the megatool of the tool kit--
--now if the failing mind can just stay within the toolkit, and have the facility to step outside of it to make an objective decision of which tool would work best, and then actually remember where the tired hands left the darned thing

this forum, these cyber-pages have entered into the toolkit

as/re makita vs black and decker
makitas run a tad quieter, but i've found that black and decker's customer service if far better.

[LimeCutter]

Here is a picture of a table (banker) I made to do my stone carving on. pre built bankers a very expensive and I thought I could build one to my own personal specifications. I also knocked togteher a small stool from the left over parts, to get extra height when needed. As you can see from the picture I have also filled the legs of two pairs of trousers with sand to support the stone. I am currently considering how to make a similar banker with a turn-table. Any ideas welcome.
http://www.drlsculpture.co.uk/wip/banker.jpg

[Landseer]

Why? I use my Black & Decker jig saw quite a lot, as I have been sawing many sheet profiles in aluminum and plastic, and sometimes wood. It has given me good reliable service by now I think a year and a half.

I certainly didn't pay US$150 for it. I got this as a free-extra when I bought, I think, my B & D power drill.

In future, when I buy power tools, I may just go for Makita.I was just teasing you Merlion ;) but seriously, as far as tool brands go, Black and Decker USED to make decent tools, so did Sears with their "Craftsman" line- back in the 50's, these days they are considered a joke by serious woodworkers and professionals- not just B&D mind you, but several other brands that are popular with homeowners, weekend woodworker hobby types, and people who just want cheap to use once or twice on something and stash in the drawer.

I know from my own experience B&D didn't hold up, I bought two of their then new "computer designed" 3/8" drills, the first time a bit got jammed as is often the case when drilling steel, it was something about 1/4" bit only- it BROKE a tooth off one of the internal gears!
I took it back, got a replacement, the replacement did the same damn thing!
I had a B&D jigsaw, several in fact and they too didn't last, I don't remember exactly which tool it was but I remember opening them up and when you see the internals you can see WHY they are garbage- you typically find much more plastic today in these tools, some even have plastic GEARS or bushings.
With a tool like a jig saw that has to convert rotational torque into reciprocal movement, as you know you need a few parts to do this, and by design these parts are subject to a lot of alternating forces, and also by design they need to have a slight bit of play or runout. Supposedly these are all lubricated for life at the factory, but over time the miniscule amount of cheap grease they use dries out or is flung out of where it needs to be- especially if the tool gets HOT. Very quickly if those internal parts are poorly made or of cheap materials, the heat or the wear tears them up fast. Then you start getting excess play, and once you start getting that the parts pound each other to hell rapidly and that's pretty much the end of the thing around then.
You can then go and replace a part or two but that is a short fix, as the other parts are worn, when you find out this gear costs $9.00 and that bushing costs $6.00 and this part costs $14.00 and then your time, you quickly realise replacing 2 or 3 little parts inside costs more than a whole new tool. IOW, by that stage the tool is disposable, it was designed that way, it cost maybe $49.95 new.

But you take a tool like the Bosch jigsaw, this came in a metal case with accessories and was about $149.00
I only bought this particular model about 7 years ago because I had a junky B&D on it's last legs, and because the 3 the shop bought that I was using were just splendid tools, I mean they just cut smooth, quiet, straight, they had a good heavy weight and were just built for quality, so I bought mine and have had it 7 years.

I also have a Makita drill, have had the same model for several years and used it a lot, I used it to drive thousands of 4" #10 square drive deck screws when I re-roofed my entire house with two valleys. I was using that drill to sink those long screws through sheets of solid plywood right into the roof rafters with no pilot holes or shank holes- just sinking them right in and torquing the hell out of them. What gave out was the electronic control in the trigger, I bought another drill, same model, it was about $59 and I use it around the house and for mixing plaster.

Keep in mind my day JOB is fine woodworking, and part of my job is I maintain all of the tools and equipment, including the wiring, lights, furnaces and air conditioners in the entire building, and over that time I've had many occasions to see power tools and use them, and I've repaired enough of them over the last 8 years to know which are total crap and which are good! We have 3 or 4 Milwaukee drills that are over 25 years old, they just plain WORK, I replace bearings now and then or cords, but they just work right despite being dropped off scaffolds, ladders and generally beaten up.

Bosch Orbital Jigsaw 1587AVSP

http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Shop_Tools-All-Bosch_Orbital_Jigsaw/display_~reviews



Pros: Durability Durability Durability!!!
Cons: None - worth ever penny

I have had a version of this jig saw for over 12 years now. Bosch sells this saw in two flavors - one with the handle overhead, and the other is without a handle, where you simply hold the barrel body of the saw. I

Pros: Tool-Less blade change...
Cons: Short cord...

I've been a Bosch jig saw user for about four years with my previous versions being the Makita and Porter Cable (which I still own but use as my "rough" saws). The Bosch is a smooth cutting saw---think knife through butter while the Makita and...

Pros: Control. Speed. Quality cuts.
Cons: None

Cuts like butter. Here I am again on the tool page. I write about what I know well. This Bosch is a winner in all categories. My main use for this saw is to cut sink openings in formica topped counter tops. This saw works. I tried a Skil, (Bosch's parent.

[Landseer]

Here is my angled modelling stand;

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b375/Randall2/table.jpg

To further illustrait what I was talking about for the new form for my next panel model, the above stand with the new box/form I built and lacquered today- resting on top;

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b375/Randall2/table2.jpg


And the box/form shown with the 3 backer boards I mentioned, just placed in loosely so they show for the photo, in actual use they will lay in the box/form flat side by side, the clay gets packed into the entire form level with the top edge which will form the field or background for the added on raised clay details, then 4 strips 15 mm thick get tacked on that edge all around for the template to roll over. When the model is cut into 3 sections, each section will be easy removed off this angled table one by one on their own little support board- the 3 shown below. This should be MUCH easier than the way I did the owl panel;


http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b375/Randall2/table4.jpg


And here is the template shown in position for the photo with one 15mm guide spacer strip. When this area around the form is filled with a little clay, the template when run around the perimeter will leave a raised molding with an ogie curved section, and the rest of the field of clay is left intact. I needed to tack on a shot length of plywood to the template thinking it will be easier having that ride on the opposite edge of the box form for stability than just trying to run the template evenly across by hand holding it.
Using the fresh clay right out of the new bags especially for this section the template runs over should make it pretty easy to get good results with the template and not leave ragged edges, torn surface or wavyness. It's one of those areas that NEEDS to be as straight and smooth as possible or else the eye will pick up deviances right away.

The phenolic template has an extension over the outside edge of the box/form so this along with the 15 mm strip will have it running evenly all around;

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b375/Randall2/table3.jpg

I will guess all 4 corners will have to be worked a bit so there are clean 90º angles where the corners all meet.

I expect I might start on this tomorrow.

[Merlion]

Concerning hand-held power tools, it looks like the same brands are not the same in quality, price range and marketing stragegy in different parts of the world.

Over here, both B & D and Bosch are marketed in DIY and retail shops thus targeting the normal consumers. As they are in competition, they are similar in price. So far, over the past few years, I have not found noticeable difference in their reliability.

Makita tools are not on sale in DIY and retail shops. This is the preferred brand among people using such power tools in their jobs/trade. I have found them quieter and more reliable. And the price is not high.

There are also very cheap unbranded power tools from China, often half or 1/3 the price of B&D and Bosch. They are noisy. But this situation many change in the next few years.

By the way, B&D and Bosch are brands. Their tools are made all over the world including China.

[Landseer]

Concerning hand-held power tools, it looks like the same brands are not the same in quality, price range and marketing stragegy in different parts of the world.

Over here, both B & D and Bosch are marketed in DIY and retail shops thus targeting the normal consumers. As they are in competition, they are similar in price. So far, over the past few years, I have not found noticeable difference in their reliability.
That makes sense, here, the DIY tools you find at the local Menards, Home Depot, Harbor Freight and hardware stores are usually geared for the weekend fix-it homeowner- the kind who wants a cheap tool to put up a couple of shelves or repair a broken door, and then dump the tool in the drawer where it sits for months un-used. These are the usually B&D brand and type $29.95 and under drills, jig saws.
The Bosch, Milwaukee, DeWalt and Makita "industrial/commercial" here are mostly high quality tools, quite a bit higher in price but favored by professionals who use their tools on the job or to make a living with- carpenters, woodworkers, construction workers, plumbers etc

We have a B&D circular saw, it's from around the 70's if not older, and it's all metal, and a worm-gear drive that has a gearcase you fill with OIL. I assume it was part of their commercial/industrial tool line- I believe most of these companies had two lines of tools- one low priced for home use and the other for commercial/contractor/industrial, but in recent years they all seem to have changed.
Also, I understand that there were some recent mergers or buyouts, i THINK B&D bought out Milwaukee and maybe Craftsman, in any case you can expect with these mergers or buyouts that parts will become unavailable and obsolete, brands will blur and so on.
I know of situations where two different brands are made and assembled in the SAME factories in China or Mexico- all the work being outsourced, so it can become more of an issue in the future where brands won't mean much more than the particular label or shape of the handle and color of the case.



Makita tools are not on sale in DIY and retail shops. This is the preferred brand among people using such power tools in their jobs/trade. I have found them quieter and more reliable. And the price is not high. Yeah same here, but I noticed Makita used to be REAL expensive, now you can get a Makita drill for not much more than the cheaper ones, makes me wonder WHY! My Makita drill was $59, that's not really that much and quite a bit less than I remember Makita selling for in the past.

There are also very cheap unbranded power tools from China, often half or 1/3 the price of B&D and Bosch. They are noisy. But this situation many change in the next few years. We have those here too, made by obscure brands you never heard of before like "Central Machinery" "Central pneumatic", usually sold at places like Harbor Freight where you can get a 4" disk grinder for about $9.95 (good ones made by Makita are probably by comparison more like $99 or higher)

By the way, B&D and Bosch are brands. Their tools are made all over the world including China. I think they are probably ALL made in China,Mexico, Phillipines etc., in fact it seems everything I buy these days has the "Made in China: sticker. All these tools might be made or assembled in China, but to specs/quality by the brand name owner- Makita, Bosch etc. on contract.

The USA doesnt have a heavy machinery, milling or steel industry any more- it's all gone overseas- we don't MAKE anything any more. Even the sheet metal duct pipes and elbows, blast gates, fittings etc we bought to expand the dust collector at the shop came with "Made in China" stickers on them.

[Blake]

Best Tool
Replacement for Proportional Callipers

Here is the best tool that I have ever found, it is a system to calculate proportions that is 2000 times better than proportional callipers. As I create very life like figurative sculpture I have found this is a very helpful tool.
I have tried to be very clear in this description, forgive me if I have over done it.

In the following example we are making a one quarter life size figure, so we need to halve every measure as half the distance is equal to one quarter the volume. This is to keep the example simple. If you want to make a sculpture 2 times the size of the model this system will work as well.

Take the height of the model and draw a line on the floor exactly the same length as the model is in height. We will call this line the “Base Line” A to B.

At a right angle (90 degrees) draw a line representing the height of the sculpture that you want to build, it may be any height it does not matter.
This line is the “ Sculpture Height Line” it touches the Base Line at the point that we called B and is at a right angle from the Base Line. The Sculpture Height Line will be labelled B to C.

Now draw in the Hypotenuse side of the triangle. This line is call the “Hypotenuse Side” and it goes from C back to A.
We now have a triangle.

We will always take our measures from the point A.

So we want to take a measure, say we want to take the belly button to the sternum or the base of the neck. We take our callipers and measure it and it is 36 cm.
We place the callipers on point A and mark the Base Line 36 cm along the line (from point A) at a point that we will call D then keeping the callipers on point A we mark the Hypotenuse Side of the triangle 36 cm alone the line (from point A) at a point that we will call E.
Now the distance between the point D on the Base Line and point E on the Hypotenuse Side will be exactly 18 cm.

Well you say, why not just divide 36 by 2 to halve the distance. Fine I say but what happens if you want to build a figure that is exactly 43% life size, or perhaps a client asks you for a sculpture exactly 67 inches high. With this method you can make the Sculpture Height Line 67 inches and this system will give you the exact proportions no matter what height your model is.

As well if you are in the middle of working a sculpture and you want to take an arbitrary measure, the length of the nose when the model sneezes, you can do so and reduce it exactly to the size of your sculpture, you just have to be quick.
Hope this helps
Blake

[Scout]

This has been a wonderful exchange of ideas for tools and even how to make some new ones. I am self taught or should I say I'm teaching myself as I am far from finished. Let's continue this. I'm sure you all have lots of ideas even if they are not materialized yet. How about props for sculpting in wet water based clay. I built a 54" figure with hands extended and had a heck of a time propping them with something that would give as it dried. Any more professional way to do it? I can build about 10 inches a day. I have some other questions but I'll post them in the appropriate thread. Thanks for your responses. Scout

[Merlion]

Blake.

I'm afraid I have difficulty visualising what you explained. Would you be able to show some visuals like photos or diagrams.

[Scout]

Landseer, I meant to ask you about your instruments. Some look like surgical instruments and some look like dental instruments. Are they a mix of things or did you buy a set of tools meant for clay. They are very interesting. I have a couple of similar ones I have from school. Sometimes they become a little tedious though. Scout

[Landseer]

Hi,
I forgot to include that I guess, those are stainless steel plaster/wax tools from Dick Blick, I use a few of them for finer detailing and clean up, they are marvelous, in fact I may buy another set (The set was like under $20) to get this one tool in particular I like that has two squared ends so I can grind it a little narrower and have two different ones.

[Blake]

Merlion
I am travelling but will draw a diagram and repost as soon as I get home. I think that this is a very important tool and one of the best methods of calculating proportions, it is so easy. I hope that people will be able to benefit from it.
Blake

[Blake]

Dear Merlion
Here is the diagram of the triangle. Using this method you can calculate the scale of your reduced model.
I hope that this makes sense.
Sorry for the delay
Kind Regards

[mark pilato]

here is my tool bin plus rubber table
best, Mark

[Scout]

Blake, thank you for this information. It comes at a time that I am contemplating doing a larger piece than I ever have attempted before. This will make even the minutest measurement easy. It took me a while to figure it out but I think I've got it. The problem for me mostly with figuring it out is seeing that the line from the point D was actually two lines. One to indicate 36cm and the other the angle between E and D. Thanks again. Scout

Mark no fair, you cleaned up first :rolleyes:

[Blake]

Scout and Merlion

Try not to complicate the idea, think of it as very easy.
No matter what measure you take from the life-size model, place the callipers on point A and mark that measure on both the Base Line at point D and the Hypotenuse Side at point E and the distance between those two points D and E will be an exact proportional measure.

Blake

[Scout]

Blake, I think I understand how to use it now. Can't wait to try it.

Landseer, I've ordered those tool that you showed us. Can't wait to get my hands on them.

Also Landseer.....wouldn't it work to add another box upside down, smaller than your container box so that you wouldn't have to fill it so full of clay. You also wouldn't have to clean out the clay from underneath much either. Just a thought. If that is not feasible....how about 2 trap doors in the bottom so when it dries a little you can hollow it out placed across two tables, making the bottom exposed so you can reach it.

I still want to hear how everyone gets a large green sculpture to the foundry without breaking it. Scout

[Blake]

Scout
"How to get a large green scuplture to the foundry without breaking it?"

Make a plaster waste mould of the clay in your studio and transport the plaster original in several pieces to the foundry and they will make a rubber mould.
That is how I do it anyway.
Blake

[Landseer]

Landseer, I've ordered those tool that you showed us. Can't wait to get my hands on them.

Also Landseer.....wouldn't it work to add another box upside down, smaller than your container box so that you wouldn't have to fill it so full of clay. You also wouldn't have to clean out the clay from underneath much either. Just a thought. If that is not feasible....how about 2 trap doors in the bottom so when it dries a little you can hollow it out placed across two tables, making the bottom exposed so you can reach it.
Great, I think you will like those tools, and you can't go wrong for the price and that they are stainless steel.
On the clay, keep in mind the clay shrinkage and that the form for this 36" wide panel is 37-3/4" wide, so sized to compensate for the 1-3/4" shrinkage the clay will do to arrive at 36". That's a lot of movement, so you wouldn't want anything in the back that was hard like another form.
I could use something soft and just build up an inch thick shell, but I prefer a good hard, firm block of clay I don't have to worry about sagging, collapsing in if I press down, or warping.

Another issue is, that amount of mass has a lot of moisture in it, and with all that it doesn't dry out fast which is good since I tend to work in 2 hour spurts.
I almost drilled some large holes in the individual backer boards for the air to circulate in the backs when the sections are removed but decided against it.
The Owl panel being done the way it was turned out perfectly flat with no tendency to warp or twist during drying, I hesitate to change that procedure and risk adding an unknown factor to it. I'll report on how well the individual backer boards work.

[Scout]

Landseer, yeah I guess the shrinkage would be the problem with that. I like to think up ways and discuss ways to simplify production. I had a production type company for a very long time and I guess it's stuck in my brain. I love the nice square boxes that you made. Makes me want to make one. Scout

[anatomist1]

Tools.
Torch handle and tips.
Regulators - lower one a fancy $200 2-stage acetylene regulator for constant pressure with small tips.
Grinders - Metabo are the only angle grinders. This Makita die-grinder is a cheap workhorse.
Adjustable stand/vice. Rotates, raises and lowers, and locks.

[dondougan]

Scout said: "I'd like to see everyones favorite tools and or instruments. I've never seen stone carving tools before. The best tools of course are the ones we made ourselves or modified to fit our needs."


The 3 pictures show some of my favorite stone carving chisels and striking tools. The chisels are painted different colors primarily for the benefit of the chisels, so students won't grab the wrong kind and misuse them!
Dayglo yellow/green designates high carbon tool steel chisels for use in pneumatic (air) hammers, dayglo orange designates carbide-tipped chisels for use in air hammers, regular orange are mallet-head high carbon tool steel chisels for soft stones, while red chisels are hammer-head high carbon tool steel for harder marbles.

Though every tool in my studio is a favorite for a particular application, I must admit the one of the most pleasurable ways of working-up a sweat sculpting is to carve Indiana limestone with a mallet head chisel and striking with a wooden mallet.

Though some of the tools are commercially produced, many of the tools shown are vintage blacksmith-made, and a good number have also been modified or made from scratch (by myself) to suit my purposes.

Perhaps the studio itself is my favorite tool, and I am constantly modifying and improving the small space (unattached one-car garage + small yard) for the last 28 years.

For more images of stone carving tools (mine as well as museum and commercial examples) view:
http://dondougan.homestead.com/TheProcess3_History.html

I devote about 15 pages to a historical overview of the tools and processes of working stone. Though the work is as yet unfinished, it covers hand and power tool working on the folllowing topics: drilling, splitting, cutting, carving, filing, and abrasives. There is also a design for the carving stand I made in 1984 which is still used daily.

[Scout]

Don, that's an impressive array of tools. I gather you teach. I can't stand for anyone to use my tools (brushes.) Thanks for the view. Scout

[Cantab]

My favourites - a good old fashioned stone sculpting tool set, and a screw-on diamond disc with diamond on the side for shaping. And a pic of Boutros Romhein and me working in Carrara, at this moment with another favourite tool of mine - a pencil! As for my tool.......

[Blake]

Here are my favourite tools wit these I can do almost anything.
Blake

[desertrock]

This is intended to be a humorous response to the the thread title.
I hope I don't offend anyone. I carved this from granite and it has been on display at a local gay establishment for 4 months. It's now back home for cleaning and a repolish for it's new owner.
I usually respond to most off-beat remarks about the piece by explaining that I didn't need to hire a model. I used my own tool:) Oh, and some of the tools to the far right too.

Mark

[jOe~]

Home made 20 ton combination slip roll and press. jOe~
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/jOe1111/stat.jpg

[Algaro]

I will take some pictures of other tools, but here is one of my most important and most used ones.

[desertrock]

Ok. Here are my real tools.

Mark

[Robert Mileha.]

I have been suprised at how easy it is to understand the English language in this forum from so many parts of the world. English-English and American-English is much closer than I thought. Sometimes it is quite difficult to fully undersatnd Hollywood English of which we see a lot. Just sometimes however some of us on bothsides of the Atlantic will stop and smile. Here is one occassion in point! Desertrock obviously understands what the question means over here!

When my camera is mended I will post some pictures of sculpture tools I use!