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obseq
07-26-2003, 06:29 AM
Does anyone have any experience or possible suggestions for permanently altering the shape of a mylar screen?


I am trying to resolve how I may be able to "mold" a screen into a fixed or permanently warped shape.


Any suggestions are appreciated!


Thanks in advance.

cletusugoabunwa
07-26-2003, 02:14 PM
hi obseq,
Could you possibly reframe your question for clearer understanding.
May l know what a maylar/screen is?In my part of the world , it could mean something else.
Till then ,Pal

Regards,

Cletus.:)

Araich
07-26-2003, 05:26 PM
Mylar is a plastic (polyester).

obseq
07-26-2003, 10:13 PM
Originally posted by cletusugoabunwa
hi obseq,
Could you possibly reframe your question for clearer understanding.
May l know what a maylar/screen is?In my part of the world , it could mean something else.
Till then ,Pal

Regards,

Cletus.:)



Hi Cletus,

Mylar is a type of screen used for film or video projections. Like a typical projector screen it comes flat. I need to find a way to mold it into a fixed position.

Araich
07-26-2003, 11:54 PM
Well, perspex is bent with heat. Often with a natural gas flame. It can also be joined with glues, some are a perfect match to the base plastic.

I would try a low temperature gas flame heat + pliers or gloves and a bucket of water to cool it in.

fritchie
07-27-2003, 05:28 PM
obseq - I'm also going to ask you to clarify. Are you talking about film Mylar, maybe 6 - 10 mils thick, of the type used by draftsmen, or a thicker product? I, too, would recommend stretching with low heat, maybe from a heat gun (hot air dryer). Stretching to the point of breaking may be a problem with thin material. Good luck, and let us know what works.

obseq
07-28-2003, 12:46 AM
Originally posted by fritchie
obseq - I'm also going to ask you to clarify. Are you talking about film Mylar, maybe 6 - 10 mils thick, of the type used by draftsmen, or a thicker product? I, too, would recommend stretching with low heat, maybe from a heat gun (hot air dryer). Stretching to the point of breaking may be a problem with thin material. Good luck, and let us know what works.


Fritchie,

I am talking about film Mylar used for projection. I'm gald you mentioned the use of a heat-gun as this is one of the methods I was thinking about.

Perhaps I could double up the Mylar?

Basically, I need a light-weight projection surface (Mylar) but need to re-mold the screen.


Thanks for all the advice everyone!

fritchie
07-29-2003, 08:31 AM
If clear transparency isn't a problem, you could probably use 2 or more layers. As Araich said, solvents exist which are effective glues for many plastics, and with thick sections where the edges to be joined can by made flat, the overall product remains crystal clear. However, I suspect that if you try to cement together two or more overlapping thin sheets, air and various imperfections will spoil transparency.

Acetone used to be the solvent or “glue” of choice for joining thicker sheets such as Lucite. Possibly special “glues” are used now. Be careful! Many of these solvents are very flammable, and some may be considered carcinogenic if not used with good ventilation.

Gregp
08-11-2003, 02:12 PM
obseq,

Usually plastic sheet material is vacuum formed.