View Full Version : wood dyes
craigktx
09-29-2009, 04:31 PM
this was my first piece using wood dyes to add color.
the colors i used were black,red and yellow but the red and yellow are not bright enough.
any ideas on using these dyes on soft wood?
I seen it used on hard wood and the colors were alot brighter.
http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o404/craigktx/DSC01050_edited.jpghttp://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o404/craigktx/DSC01049_edited.jpg
GHarrison
09-29-2009, 04:58 PM
Ever done any water-color painting? Stain or dye works kind of the same way... Multiple applications of yellow, or red for that matter will add to the saturation of the color...
...plus it looks like there is a lot of black, kind of distracting from the reds and yellows...
craigktx
09-29-2009, 05:27 PM
I followed a post on a woodworking site were they applied black to the hole piece then sanded it with 180.
they repeated this for the red as well.
that piece showed all the colors when finished, it looked like fire.
they used maple tho.
a weaker mix of black might have helped.
i have done acrylic paint mixed with water,but it isn't as good as the dyes are.
Man I hate what you've done t this...
i've been enjoying your work till now, it's like you've been unfolding and exposing the naturalness of the wood.....what the idea behind the coloring??
craigktx
09-29-2009, 06:42 PM
I been having problems finding spalted wood,it seems the last batch has rotted to much,plus i wanted to add a different twist to my work.
I failed at adding to the wood (color).
I was just trying something i seen on a different site that i thought looked
cool.:)
evaldart
09-29-2009, 07:00 PM
I dont think its such a travesty at all. Stains are better than paints because there is still rawness available. So its more of a "tonal" thing. And darkness is often richer than light-ness. Main thing is, that you can still appreciate what its made of (no reason for paint or fauxy goo...ever, really). The form is very well conceived and executed...and form is whats really important anyway.
Move on to the next one C. Good job.
chris 71
09-29-2009, 08:33 PM
hey craig i dont think its that bad. i am interested in trying wood dyes too i havent yet but i want to. check this guys stuff out were he dyes his wood sculptures LEO E. OSBORNE . totally wicked ever since i seen the results he has got i want to experiment with them too. but im sure like anything it takes some practise ;)
craigktx
09-29-2009, 08:50 PM
this guy is my favorite so far, he doesn't use dyes but i like the work.
http://muniart.org/index.htm
try using just black,i like the ebonizing color.
this is were i got the idea from.
http://lumberjocks.com/trifern/blog/9400
i get it
http://lumberjocks.com/galleries/trifern
rderr.com
09-30-2009, 04:43 PM
Shoe Wax, Craig.
Robert
craigktx
09-30-2009, 05:10 PM
Shoe Wax, Craig.
Robert
Aniline dye, its a powder thats you mix with hot water.
PTsideshow
10-01-2009, 07:42 AM
You can try, using alcohol as the solvent carrier when mixing the powder some are water based and some are the alcohol based.
The shoe waxes, will not give the brite color. In the S-F-P(Spruce-Fir-Pine)woods the colors will be softer other than were the darker ring wood is the natural brown color shows through.
Food colorings the bakery/industrial type with the numbers will also give assorted levels of color. A lot of the water born dyes are not water fast. The food coloring will run when wet.
Leather dyes,(liquid kind) will not a shine brite either since the shine of the colors is dependent on the reflection of the pigmented light off the opaque under surface.
Mixing your own dye(stain) as the terms are pretty much interchangeable. Dyes being used for leather and cloth, and stain for wood.
Head for Dick Blick's site and look at the powder paints and the vehicles and solvents they have for mixing them and applying them.
http://www.dickblick.com/
The biggest problem you will have is the colors in the dyes or stain changing, various degrees of blues and off purples for the blacks, and red and yellow combining to blend towards orange.
The wood choice may be your biggest factor. The degree of surface hardness and that the color pigment collects in the top most layers and sink down into the wood fibers.
Here is something else you might try, it is staining colors for metals. I have only used the blue,red and purple as they are they are the ones I had on hand.
http://www.dymon.com/dymon-category.php?category=9 If it doesn't come up just use the dymon.com and then look for staining colors
:D
grommet
10-01-2009, 11:08 AM
would it be possible to make a dilute solution of shellac to apply to a bare piece to restrict how much of the black a soft wood soaks up? test on scraps first, of course, for proper dilution...
craigktx
10-01-2009, 11:30 AM
Thanks for the links PT and i think its the soft wood also.
Shellac might work being this kinda of wood needs 3 coats of full strength finish to get a constant look.
When i tried to finish the wood with wipe on poly it soaked up a hole can
so i have been applying reg poly and wiping it off.
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