Metal Shear/Bending Rolling Brake

[cdarnell]

Hi all,
I'm an MFA student starting on kinetic sculptures. I'd like to use sheet metal but our sculpture lab doesn't have a bending brake or even a shear.

Does anyone have any recommendations for where to get a bending brake? I've seen combination shears at Harbor Freight but am worried about their quality. I'm not too worried about the shearing as I can plasma cut the metal but bending is a nightmare. I'm working with 12 to 20 guage sheet usually not more than 40" lengths.

Thanks

[sculptorsam]

You're going to have a hard time finding a reasonably priced brake that will do thicker than 18 guage, which is quite thin. Most foot powered brakes are geared toward sheet-metal workers making ductwork with 18 or 20 guage material. The next step up from there is an honest-to-god piece of equipment. Check for a used one in the trade publications, auctions, ebay, etc. It's gonna run you several grand at least I should think. But on the bright side, a good piece of equipment will last decades with proper care.

On the other hand, you can either work with lighter material or befriend the owner of a local shop who'll let you use his equipment after-hours in exchange for a cool, sculptural sign or conversation piece. Though a 12 pack might be enough, provided you sign a waiver.

Good luck.

[chapman A]

I agree with sculptorsam. Finding a good metal fabrication shop is a great idea. They are always lokking for skilled labor. You could offer to trade labor for use of there tools. They are also a good resource for materials, and sharpening your metal working skills(tricks of the trades). Watch and learn and always ask questions.
good luck.

[ironman]

Hi, I recently purchased a slip roller from Enko, made in China. That's why their prices are so low. It seems to work well, my only complaint being that there's no gauge to tell you the diameter of the curve you're going to make. As a result, I've made some tests and my own marks on the adjusting part as a guide. It's maximum is 50" wide 16 gauge steel. I also recently purchased a gantry crane from Harbor Freight for $524, free shipping and made in china. A comparable one made in the U.S. would go for $15-1700 plus shipping. It is adjustable and works just fine.
The Chinese are ready to kick ass economically in the global market due to their low prices, and quality while still paying a middle class wage (for China) to the workers.
I would imagine that bending brakes and shears made in China would work okay and you certainly can't beat the prices.
Hope this info helps,
Have a nice day,
Jeff

[jOe~]

Just wondering Jeff. Did you use your slip roller(is it Enko or Enco?) to help form the curves on your new piece or was the metal thin enough to clamp and weld ? Should be obvious from my question that I'm dying to learn more about fabrication techniques--anything to replace grunt with finese.

Joe

[Bigrhamr]

The import combo machines are typically good for 20-22 gauge. There are several imported 48" box brakes rated for 12 gauge out there, as of the 2004 catalog Grizzly had one for $1395. I've got one that's essentially the same machine sold under a different name. It's definitely NOT what I would call a good quality industrial machine but for moderate usage it works just fine. If you wanted to use the full 48" width bending 12 gauge it would take 2 people and a fair amount of muscle. One the upper end of the scale are the US made machines like Chicago, D&K and others that escape me at the moment. IF you can find one expect to pay several thousand dollars which will be $ well spent if you are going to use it heavily. They probably weigh three or 4 times as much as an import and as such are far more ridgid and will bend heavier material much easier, you probably would never wear one out.

[glass attack]

You can "score" the sheet metal by using a cutting disk on an angle grinder. Grind a deep line into the metal without piercing through. Then, with only minor difficulty, bend the metal along the score line. If you are crafty, you might be able to use the plasma cutter to gouge a line instead of using a grinder.

There are limitations to bending on a score line. You wont get crisp bends and it still wont be easy.The plus side of the score method is that you do some interesting bends if you make wavey/curved lines, just don't expect to bend the metal very far.

Using a $400-600 pan/finger/box break to bend sheet metal will also have limitations and more than likely you wont be thrilled with the crispness of the bends. I own a the Enco 16ga x 48in pan brake and the 50 slip roll and I love'm and they sure do save time.

When I have a project that my tool collection can't handle I bring a paper template or blue prints to a sheet metal shop and let the professional and their press brake work it's magic. I was lucky enough to find a sheet metal shop that was eager to work on anything that wasn't a stainless steel cabnet, copper gutter or galvanized drain spout.

The 3 in 1 Harbour Freight tool is nothing but trouble. Before I met my wife she bought one and returned it the same day. Call Enco and request a catalog, if their tools don't fit your budget it will at least make for good bathroom reading. Sign up for the other catalogs as well because they often have sales and send out flyers. If you are going to open your mailbox for "Junk Mail", it might as well be a bunch of catalogs selling inexpensive tools from China. Enco, Grizzly, Northern Tool...am I missing any? Look around on Ebay for good used equipment. Northern Tool had a catalog only sale not too long ago and listed a 16ga. x 36" pan brake for $199. If they are still offering it you might want to consider it. Currently on Northern Tool's website, they are offering a 14ga x 35" "metal bender" for $199. I don't know about the quality of that item.

-Alex

[ironman]

Hi Joe, Ooops, it's Enco, not Enko! Yes I did use the slip roller to form the curves on that new piece of mine. The slip roller is new for me and so I've been eyeballing the curves, check the fit, then curve again, either more or less, check the fit, etc. I still clamp the pieces before welding but it's much easier to do these curves with the slip roller than without. My previous method was to use heat and brute force but that's like working in the stone age. In the past I would sometimes shy away from doing very many curved shapes because of the problem of not being able to get good smooth curves with the heat-brute force method on anything that was very wide and I hated having this restriction placed on my creativity. This slip roller has taken care of that problem.
Have a great day,
Jeff

[JAZ]

I have a crude, but very handy slip roller that some guy made from spare parts. I've used it a million times. It will curve 11 gauge up to about 11 or 12 inches wide. If you can design for narrower width pieces it doesn't take as much force, so equipment rated for 18 can do thicker. (and if you get yourself a slip roller check to see if it opens to let the piece out. If so, that would be very handy, but also a potential weak spot.)
JAZ

[JAZ]

Jeff, which new sculpture of yours is he referring to? (I haven't been keeping up with postings very well lately.)
JAZ

[JAZ]

Jeff, which new sculpture of yours is he referring to? (I haven't been keeping up with postings very well lately.)
JAZ

Nevermind. I just saw it! Very nice.

[Miews]

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Thanks