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RodT
08-24-2005, 06:19 AM
http://www.netspeed.com.au/tayloram2000/Art%20Gallery_files/image011.jpg

Greetings Comrade Sculptors,
This image shows a piece I made some time ago, cast (whisper) in plaster. I did this because it is mega-cheap, and I knew how to do it.

Well, of course you all know, plaster is heavy and not strong. This item hangs outside my kitchen window, so is subject to some weathering.
I've recently been converting an piece (more whispers) that is even less suited to plaster. This next image shows the results of such foolishness (broken, demonstrating this point)..

http://www.netspeed.com.au/tayloram2000/Art%20Gallery_files/image014.jpg

As you will have guessed by now, sculpture is not my day job. Just as well since I think I'd be suffering the bruises of customers unimpressed by the sight of disintegrating plaster.

Here's my question. I've been rebuilding the second (broken) piece in fibreglass. Very time consuming, but mostly I'm very unhappy with exposing myself to the nasty materials.

Can you recommend an alternative to fibreglass that is reasonably light and strong? A simple shape as you'll see. Must be of low-moderate cost, and something I can do at home. I'm imagining something cast into a plaster mould.

Awaiting your thoughts, thanks
- Rod Taylor
(Canberra, Australia)

GaryR52
08-24-2005, 11:16 AM
Rod, I've been looking into using fiberglass over a foam armature and decided that, instead of fiberglass, I'll use Liquitex Acrylic Modeling Paste. It's non-toxic, there are no fumes, it doesn't require any fiberglass reinforcement, and it can be colored with acrylic paint and weathersealed with Liquitex Soluvar Varnish (http://www.liquitex.com/Products/varsoluvargloss.cfm). You can buy Liquitex Modeling Paste in 1 gallon jars and it can be brushed on or modeled. It can also be sanded and sawed. It's basically powdered marble suspended in an acrylic binder. It's cheaper than Winterstone, also.

Gary

RodT
08-28-2005, 04:26 AM
Thanks Gary.
The material looks interesting, but I'm not sure it's suitable since I probably want something that I can pour into a mould. If I leave a hole in the underside, I could conceivably paste it on. However, as you'll see in the picture, the tail is fairly narrow and inaccessable.
Also, there's no support structure - is the material strong enough on its own?

- Rod

bluedogshuz
08-28-2005, 09:11 AM
design-cast with 1/4 inch fiberglass added. Plenty of strength , weather stable. I think its www.design-cast.com

Merlion
08-28-2005, 05:14 PM
I do use fiberglass resin. Initially I was not happy with it as I made mistakes and got my fingers picked by the fiber. But after gaining more experience, I am now more comfortable with using it.

I have tried cement reinforced with fiberglass. This is a heavier alternative cheaper than polyester resin. But with this I cannot touch up on the details.

John

bluedogshuz
08-29-2005, 08:21 AM
Epoxy fiberglass is wonderful as a finished product. I lay it up on constructions instead of casting, which is ver messy. The downside is sanding fiberglas or getting pricked by it! They don't call it "glass" for nothing!! I like design-cast better and I can lay that up over the fiberglass resin for texture AND its not mean or smelly, a great date so to speak! :)

iowasculptor
08-29-2005, 06:36 PM
fiberglass bondo!
Balsa wood with bondo over the top?
you can do a lot with cardboard, paper mache and bondo, sand and paint can be made to look exactly like metal.

bluedogshuz
08-30-2005, 09:17 AM
Interesting. Is bondo over plywood weatherstable, i mean waterproof? Is it durable and structurally sound? I'm not arguing a point by the way. I would like to do pieces in plywood attached by simpson and covered with a surface. I do direct modelling and epoxy doesn't work well as it runs. Any expierence with bondo and long term durability? I can make anything look like metal the problem I a m dealing with is the substrate material: wood. I have been sealing it with epoxy which I hope will make it permanent and dimensionally stable. Some have told me it won't work however, I have several large structures being baked in 100 degrees with ample rain with no problem so far.

GaryR52
08-30-2005, 10:54 PM
Thanks Gary....
Also, there's no support structure - is the material strong enough on its own?

- Rod

I don't know for sure, Rod. Not yet, anyway. I would think that acrylic modeling paste has to have some kind of substrate or armature, though. As far as that goes, any number of materials would suffice, including, wire mesh, fiberglass, foam, or whatever. However, the paste can be built up pretty thick, a coat at a time, with time allowed for drying and sanding between coats, and all sorts of extenders and fillers can be added to give it more structural strength, too.

Gary

pricedele
07-14-2008, 05:48 PM
hi, i have tried using car body fillers.
it's like fiberglass but cheaper.use sack cloth as re-enforcement.it's fun and easy.

wolff
07-14-2008, 07:09 PM
I`m all for experimenting with new materials. And there are a lot of good suggestions here...but replacing resin with bondo doesn`t answer the nasty materials issue.

Neither of your forms look very difficult to build a proper armature for. Plaster is heavy and not very strong, but with a heavy wire mesh and thin metal or wooden armature, its plenty strong. 2 or 3 centimeters thick plaster, with a solid layer of hardware cloth and thinnish rebar to support your legs would be relatively lightweight and strong. It might take a little more time than simply making a solid cast, but it sure would keep the toxicity down.

Bill
www.billwolff.net

cooljamesx1
07-15-2008, 02:28 AM
paper mache and bondo

thats what I would have said.

nep75
07-15-2008, 06:06 PM
You could try Forton MG. I think Barnes is carrying it now. It's stable outside, it is heavy like plaster though.

vmaksymo
07-18-2008, 03:24 PM
I use fiberglass but only in sheets (not chopped) and not with resin. I use it with Hydrocal FGR 95. It will look like plaster, but will be rock hard. You lay it up in a mold (it is not pourable) to anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4 inches depending upon the size. If you want it to be weatherproof, you can add duoMatrix-G from Smooth-on.

CroftonGraphics
07-19-2008, 07:18 PM
Hi Iowa Sculptor mentioned balsa.

I am also wanting to use fibreglass and epoxy resin (I have some left over from a paddleboard I made) but am finding foam too messy.
I really like the idea of making the shapes I need in balsa.

I have been using mdf for some reliefs but dont like the chemical nature of that prior to painting.

Does the balsa need to be prepared in anyway with a chemical etc prior to putting the fibreglass and resin on it?

Also, any hints on colouring, whats a good cheap paint to mix in to the final layers of epoxy? A surfboard manufacuter once mentioned to me its possible to use 'airfix' paints for minor repairs. Perhaps, for these small shapes I could use similar paint too?

Many thanks.