polyester resin

[Gene]

In making maquettes, I've used styrofoam, wood, plaster, concrete, etc... but never polyester resin.
I'd like to explore this medium... Are there any sites, info sources, etc. to learn the 'basics' and how to get started in this area?
Appreciate any help. Thanks

Gene

[anton]

Hi yes there are websites try resion casting . then take it form there .
hope it helps !
anton

[Merlion]

Many books on sculpture techniques do explain resin casting, most of them with good illustrations. But don't go for those written years ago as this technique is relatively modern.

The liquid resin is often mixed with an inert filler powder before finally mixing in the hardener catalyst in the right ratio. Quite a lot of heat is generated when the resin hardens.

[halfbad]

The biggest problem you will find with using polyester resin is the smell factor. If you can get by that one you will find that it is a great medium. You can use a wide variety of fillers in polyester-everything from sawdust to atomized metal powders and most any kind of powdered mineral. There are a couple of exceptions though. Don't use redwood sawdust or pure copper powder unless you experiment first. The redwood will inhibit the cure of the resin while the copper will accelerate it. You can actually get away with the copper, but forget the redwood. Polyester is easily repaired an polished to give a surface that is conducive to whatever. The biggest drawback to using polyester is the fact that it tends to be somewhat brittle-and the smell of course. But having said that you can make polyester castings that simulate anything from stone to metal. If you want to try a website that carries not only the resin but the fillers as well, try www.artstuf.com-they are very knowledgeable as well. Good luck!

[JAZ]

I believe that issue with the redwood is that it is wood. Since wood absorbs moisture from the air, it generates air bubbles when mixed with resin. Only non-absorbent inert material works if what you are after is a faithful cast. Obvioulsy, other materials may yield useful "happy accidents". The surface of the cast resin is determined partly from what's mixed with it and partly what the original object being cast is made from. For instance, I mixed powdered pumice with resin expecting the finished piece to look like smooth stone, but the sculpture I cast from was made of plasticene and acorns, molded in RTV and the end result is objectionally shiny. On another piece (pictured in the images gallery: Wheat, the American Staple), was cast from crackers and steel nuts using the same RTV, and cast once in plaster, then in straight Easyflow resin and has a matte finish. I painted the plaster one with watercolors and the resin one with oils. Both look like the crackers I started with. This morning I mailed the resin one to Washington D.C for a group show called Micro Monumentals at Flashpoint Gallery. The show will later travel to Cincinnatti in time for the ISC conference in June.
One thing I learned while doing that one is that the release agent - Pol-Ease 2300 - that was recommended for the type of rubber I cast with really, eally needs to be brushed in. The mold I had was very tiny and had lots of crevices, so I decided that spraying thoroughly intl the mold repeatedly would have to do. However, the resin stuck to the mold enough that I had to tear the mold to shreds to get the cast out. Part of the problem, of course is the shape of the subject matter - undercuts between each cracker - but we all love to push the envelope, don't we.
JAZ

[Gene]

Thanks for the help and info...
'HalfBad', I'm interested in the using of additives (ie. powdered metals)...
Can you get the rusted-iron look with a poly-resin maquette?...
Any good sources for powered metals?...
Also, your 'ArtStuff' website doesn't want to work.
Thanks

[Ornery]

Ooo too bad the art-stuff site wont work for you (try it without the "they"), they have a huge amount of atomized metal powders, which work well with polyester (except for COPPER, which kicks it so fast you'll be lucky to get it out of the bucket). I've had great sucess with metal filled resins, polyester and urethane. Polyester is brittle, but polishes up better, you can add milled fibers to give it strength, and often the metal will settle out in the mix so either mix some cabosil in to keep it suspended, or really pack the resin with metal...and use risers. Polyester has a tendency to shrink when curing, even filled, which causes it to pull away from the surface of the mold before it's fully cured. So expect to spend time finishing. Also, the metal has a tendency to hold the heat, in effect making the casting hotter, so it will kick faster, crack, or do other annoying things....back off on the MEKP a little, and dont use accelerated resin, unless you're doing thin sections. You can also make a thick paste with metal powder, polyester, and cabosil....and just trowel it on. Works great, smooth with a thinner mix!

[Gene]

Thanks for the help/info Ornery...

Site works without 'they'... good product info!

Gene

[Dan]

A problem I have when casting with polysester resin is the amount of prep it requires before I can prime the finished castings. In my particular case, repeated wet sandings with 800 paper are required before the primer will adhere. Can somebody suggest a product that can be used to clean the casting so I don't have to spend so much time sanding? That would be excellent.

Thanks!