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mystro24 04-15-2006 11:51 AM

Sculpting Stand
 
Where can I purchase an inexpensive sculpting stand with wheels that can hold up to 150 lbs?

acanthus 04-16-2006 03:46 PM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
1 Attachment(s)
[IMG] Here is one I built for the cost of lumber and casters and a lazy susan. I am not sure the image is loading. If not tell me how to load it.

Landseer 04-16-2006 05:10 PM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
I like it, reminds me of the old time modelling stands you see in the old photos. Sure beats paying $350-$500 for a metal one from Sculpture House etc

HappySculpting 04-16-2006 06:53 PM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
What I like in a sculpting stand is to be able to turn the top so as to rotate the sculpture instead of having to physically walk around the sculpture to work on it.

Also, to be able to move the sculpture up and down and thus able to view it from different angles helps so much.

Not sure how these features could be built on one's own; But using a tall wooden stool and then adding a square top so that it turns. Don't know how you could get it to crank up and down. Then, of course, you could add wheels at the bottom.

-Tamara

HappySculpting 04-16-2006 07:05 PM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
Here's a link to an example of making a stool into a sculpting stand...
http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/show...culpting+stand

and here's a link to a stool that would work well for a stand but someone said it wasn't available in the U.S. Maybe it could be found, though, with a little research...
http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/show...culpting+stand

acanthus 04-16-2006 08:12 PM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
150 pounds and up is allot of weight for a three legged stand. Especially if you are doing any heavy pounding on it. The connections holding the legs together tend to break. I built my stand to a height I am comfortable with. To make it taller just add sheets of plywood. The top can be removed(with the casters) which will lower it about 4 inches and it still can be turned on its locking base casters. Although I haven't used it yet with more than 200 pounds it should easily accommodate 1000 #'s plus.
If you would like measurements, or more pictures of this stand, let me know.

Gerard

BMBourgoyne 04-18-2006 10:49 PM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
the most simple way to build a sturdy stand is to use plumber's pipe and fittings-- the only tools you will need is a drill, a couple of monkey wrenches, and a screwdriver.

I've built several myself for around the studio (always seem to have more than one sculpture going at once), and the materials will typically run between $30 to 50 dollars. I'll post a photo of one if you're interested. Depending on the size of the pipe you use, it can be light-duty or heavy.

Buy a 30" or so length of 1-1/2" diameter threaded pipe,
a 1" diameter threaded pipe of the same length or slightly longer,
a 1-1/2" "floor" flange
a 1" "floor" flange
two 16" squares (or disks) of 3/4" plywood
three or four heavy duty casters (the locking kind are good)
a 5/16" x 3" bolt
and screws to screw the floor flanges and casters to the plywood (#10 x 3/4" wood screws are good)

Drill a series of holes large enough to slide the bolt in and out about 2" apart, all-the-way through the larger pipe. Screw the floor flanges onto the center of the plywood, screw the pipes into their respective flanges, screw the casters on the base (the part with the larger pipe). Slide the smaller pipe into the larger, using the bolt through the larger pipe as stop, and presto- an adjustable stand.

You can tap threads into a hole near the top of the larger pipe, bend a bolt into an L-shape, and use it as an adjustable lock to hold the inner pipe in place-- as well as weld a nut onto the pipe for better threads-- but I would not trust it without a through-bolt as a back-up for heavier loads. Also, a lazy susan on top makes for a smooth turn-table. 3 casters make for an always steady table, but require wider spacing (say 18" at least), than four.

I'm writting this from memory, so make sure in the store that the 1" pipe will infact fit inside the 1-1/2" pipe. also, galvanized is better than black pipe if you use water-clay or plaster.

The only big disadvantage of this design is you have to remove the sculpture before you raise or lower the top-- but it makes a good student or secondary stand.

good luck,
Brad

Merlion 04-19-2006 04:50 AM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by HappySculpting
here's a link to a stool that would work well for a stand but someone said it wasn't available in the U.S. Maybe it could be found, though, with a little research...
http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/show...culpting+stand

I have one of this adjustable height stool, bought from Ikea perhaps two years ago. But now I can't find it anymore in their 2006 catalog. I did think about using it as a sculpting stand, but finally I didn't as I find this stool too low for this purpose.

As a sculpting stand, I often make use of a two-wheel kitchen trolley also by Ikea. On top I put a lazy susan. If one does not do knocking and banging on things on top, it should be strong enough for 100 lb and perhaps 150 lb works. For small artworks, I put a sitting stool on top and next a small lazy susan. I have more details on this including photos in another thread.

RCFA-Raven 04-20-2006 01:36 PM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
I use a metal tool rack/cart of sorts. My husband purchased it at Auto Zone. It is on wheels and has a drawer. The top was dishlike and I have put a board on top of it for my work surface. I like it because it is just high enough and I can roll it around anywhere I want. I would say that you can put 250 to 300 lbs on it...maybe more.

BMBourgoyne 04-24-2006 10:49 PM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
1 Attachment(s)
heres a pic of one of the stands I was talking about. Its meant for light-duty work, hence no through-bolts for height adjustments-- just threaded holes with bent-handle bolts. Also, the pipes used here were 1-1/4" and 1". And the pipes are 24" tall, with a min. overall height of about 29" and max. of about 47".

Merlion 04-24-2006 11:56 PM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by BMBourgoyne
heres a pic of one of the stands I was talking about.

When you need to turn your work around, do you turn the whole stand on its castors?

Just curious about this. 'Lazy susan' turntables are quite common among the Chinese as many dining tables are round and common food for all are placed on these 'lazy susans'. Are you able to get them at your place ?

BMBourgoyne 04-25-2006 09:51 AM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
I typically put a lazy-susan under a sculpture to rotate it as I work. I've got many of these, both for working clays and for reference models, ranging from 8" diameter to 24" (made for large TVs). The ones with tighter bearings work better, as the loose ones can wobble as you work, as well as turn on their own if not exactly level.

Brad

rderr.com 04-25-2006 04:09 PM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
2 Attachment(s)
I build a metallic adjustable and rotating table that is weight tested to 280 lbs. It adjusts from 27ins. to 50inc in two ways: either by a slip and lock mechanism or by a screw. There is also a C.H.A.I.R./Straddle Stick (see thread) that adjusts from 24ins. to 30ins. The table is very robust and cost $350 plus shipping. The C.H.A.I.R. et T.A.B.L.E. is not yet on the market.

Robert Derr

fritchie 05-09-2006 12:24 PM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
Sorry I couldn't get to this sooner, as moderator of the thread. I was displaced from New Orleans with Katrina's flood, but now am back nearby, and am using a new Notebook computer.

I like BMBourgoyne's idea of a pipe-within-a-pipe, but there is a serious wobble issue with the tabletop and therefore with the sculpture, unless the two pipes fit together very closely. In that case, there might be issues with the two pipes getting jammed, or freezing so they won't rotate. Someone gave me a stand like this years ago, but after being frustrated with these problems, I just put it to use supporting one end of a table.

Although they're expensive, I bought about three of the Sculpture House adjustable metal stands (one at a time) many years ago, and I've been very happy with them. By now, one or two of them have worn at the top support hole and they tend to wobble a bit when rotated, but I correct this by inserting a bit of cardboard between the pipe and support surface.

Also, there is an advantage to using only three legs, as four will give your stand a tipping motion if the floor has any deviation from flatness. (My Sculpture House tables have 4 legs and exhibit this problem. I rotate the base until I find a fairly stable position, and then lock the floor rollers.) In fact, because of the wobble problem, I put a lazy Susan on the stand, and use that for rotation. I guess the end result is that nothing is perfect or lasts forever, so you just have to be inventive and do what works.

Landseer 05-09-2006 01:26 PM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
This might be a possible solution, I bought a drafting stool for $69 which included shipping

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Multi Function Drafting KC96KG-GG
Stool with Adjustable
Foot Ring [KC96KG-GG]

Overall Height: 24.5'' - 28.5'' H

Total 69.99

http://www.bizchair.com/kc96kg-gg.html

I bought it to sit on to work, the support column is steel, gass filled/adjustable/swivel.

One could take the seat off and there is a substantial steel mounting plate with appropriate holes for scews/bolts, and add a couple layers of plywood squares for the modelling table.

For $69 delivered it's a reasonable workable modelling stand for certain uses, if nothing else it's still re-usable as a stool by putting the seat back on- nothing lost trying it.

dondougan 05-10-2006 01:52 AM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
2 Attachment(s)
Several designs for home-made sculpting stands in use at modelling classroom:

The single stand pictured is much more stable and easier to use than the others. It was made from an old desk chair from the thrift store ($5), a couple pipe flanges and adaptors ($4), a couple of scrounged telescoping pieces of pipe (maybe $10 if bought new?), and a scrap of formica-laminate countertop, and some silver spray paint. The adjusment for height is a series of holes in the outer piece of pipe through which a nut and bolt pin is fitted, and which rides upon the top of the top of the inner piece of pipe. I retained the base for the chair seat and mounted a block of wood on which to atttach the lower of the two pipe flanges. Strangely enough, this is the one that has since been absconded-with by somebody for their own private use . . .

cheerfulkitty 10-21-2006 04:14 PM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
Hi can you send a image please. I am trying to make one, lol

dondougan 10-24-2006 01:25 AM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
If you click on the thumbnail above you'll get a bigger image. If you want a better image than that I can't send one -- as I said it was 'taken' from the classroom by persons unknown . . . and that is the only photo I ever shot of the now-missing modelling stand.

If you go to the local thrift store (Salvation Army, Goodwill, etc.) you can usually find an old desk chair that can be dismantled for the sturdy wheeled base. The exact means of attaching your table top and adjustable pipe will vary depending on the type of desk chair you find. Generally it can be made from threaded iron pipe fittings/flanges, (note that threaded electrical conduit pipe is lighter weight than galvanized or black plumbing pipe - and still plenty heavy enough for your purposes. Remember you will need two diameters so one will telescope into the other for height-adjusting and swiveling) and a small piece of plywood (scrap formica-clad countertop is ideal, while at the thrift store check out small round or square formica-topped tables). You will probably have to drill several holes through one of the two uprights (to fit a removable pin) as the easiest way of making the height adjustable.
If you have a local old-time hardware store go there to shop rather than to an impersonal big box [HomeDepot, etc.]. You will be more likely to receive experienced help from the salesclerk in figuring out exactly which fittings to use and buy.

Jimmo 10-29-2006 09:18 AM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
Hey there all,
I'm new here. Thanks BMBourgoyne- I made the stand as per your instructions and it's really great. I drilled the holes in the 1" pipe only so the bolt rests on the top of the 1 1/2" pipe and the platform swivels quite nicely! Thanks again.

Alfred 10-30-2006 11:40 AM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
BMBourgoyne -- I use an almost exact copy of your stand. The differences in mine are that I use a triangular base so as to not worry about the casters being level to eachother (keeps the stand from rocking slightly if the casters are a little different in height) and I also drill the holes in the Adjustment pipe so that it can spin freely. To keep the top of the threads (of the 1 1/2" pipe) from being damaged by that spinning, I have simply screwed on a 1 1/2" coupling. This gives a large flat surface for the height adjustment bolt to rest on. When it comes to really heavy sculpts however (like twice life sized portrait heads) I use a simple box type stand made of 4x4's and plywood and heavy duty casters. It spins easy enough when I need it to and serves as extra storage when I'm not using it.

Alfred

cooljamesx1 10-30-2006 05:17 PM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
what kind of sculpture do you plan to do on this stand? is it for stone?

Merlion 10-31-2006 12:37 AM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
2 Attachment(s)
I don't use any dedicated sculpting stands. Instead my arrangement is simple and flexible. I have a small sturdy kitchen worktable with two castors from Ikea, the international furniture chainstore. This is my multi-purpose mini-worktable.

For sculpting, I put a turntable on top. The two castors instead of four means the worktable stays relatively fixed when I sculpt. But when I need to move the artwork, even heavy ones, I just lift it slightly at the side opposite the castors, roll the whole load forward on the castors.

For bigger sculpting jobs, my turntable is a round dining-table lazy-susan. For smaller sculpting jobs, the turntable is a flowerpot base-support. To adjust the work height, I put a short plastic stool on the worktable.

When I am not sculptinng, the same mini-worktable can be used for many other purposes including casting molds and artworks.

glassgirl 11-17-2006 01:56 AM

Re: Sculpting Stand (For wood sculpting)
 
What about for wood working? what kinda stand/surface do you guys use? And how do you clamp and keep the wood from moving?

anatomist1 11-17-2006 08:28 PM

Re: Sculpting Stand (For wood sculpting)
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by glassgirl
What about for wood working? what kinda stand/surface do you guys use? And how do you clamp and keep the wood from moving?

In my view, the best thing for this will be a stand-mounted vise, like the one pictured here. Notice that it has two locking pins - the top one is in a separate piece of tube that allows the height to be locked while the top continues to spin, and the bottom one fixes it to the base. This is much better for sculpting than a bench-mounted vise, as it allows you to spin the work, adjust its height and walk around it freely. The height adjustment is vital for back and shoulder health, because it allows you to keep the work at chest level so you don't spend hours hunching, bending or stooping.

For wood, I would probably make a bigger one with a more wood-friendly vise and a wider base.

classicalsculpt 11-19-2006 02:20 PM

Re: Sculpting Stand
 
Here is a step by step article with photos on building an adjustable height sculpting stand from a standard wooden 30" bar stool. (you can pick one up from walmart for around $30).
Add some inexpensive materials from home depot, and if you have a few tools in the garage:
http://www.wetcanvas.com/Articles2/4220/221/


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