Holy Scrap!

[AbstractErosion]

Here in Korea most buildings have interior walls made of expanded polystyrene. I run around at night with a mask on, liberating scraps from the garbage, and stick them together with spray foam. It gives me a cheap, and easy carving block that I then cover with the texture of my choice before I cast it in pure butter. Ok, ok, the mask and peanut butter parts are lies...

Honestly, I really like the look of carved foam and resin, but I keep casting bronze because I feel like the density fits the forms better.

This was a process shot from about a month ago. It's been finished and is sitting at the foundry waiting to cast, and make me feel poor agian.

[Nelson]

Hi Jason,

I find that sculpture very interesting. Would you tell us a bit about the process?
Did you use a hot carve knife? smoothening the surface? etc. How did you acomplish such appealing shape? May be simple but I`m very curious and see there`s much potential in your process. Thanks.

[ironman]

Nice work AE.
I too would like to know more about your process.

[AbstractErosion]

In places where there is white foam you can use your bare hands to break pieces off or use a big camp saw to cut the rough shape. I use many tools to carve it depending on the mess I'm willing to make. On this piece I used Saws, hands, hot wire, metal spoons, knives and I finished it off with sand paper. The yellow spray-foam needs sharp objects. Spoons and hands won't work. Polystyrene has to be one of the easiest things to work with other than clay, and I usually use epoxy to coat it when I'm done.

Finding it is easy, I've found really large pieces floating in lakes (from boat docks?) and washed up on beaches before. It just goes in the landfill eventually either way, so you may as well make the most of it before it ends up there.

As for shape, that's easy. I just go for the overall shape first by breaking off or adding on foam. Then I start refining. I usually don't know where the base will be until the form starts coming together, and even then, don't be afraid to break pieces off for fun, or even change the base even when it's finished. Since it's so light there is no excuse for not constantly rotating it 360 degrees on every axis, every 30 min or so.

I did a little research a while back. If I remember correctly...
The spray foam is toxic and nasty. Use as little as possible.

The white foam is non-toxic but as everyone knows, it never breaks down by natural means. Wear a mask, as I'm pretty sure that dust in your lungs doesn't have to be toxic to mess you up. I did read that if you burn it, it will release toxins UNLESS it's super hot (forgot the temp), then it burns clean. Or so they say. I'm not sure if that means doing a burnout is ok, or if you need an industrial incinerator.

The white foam is non-toxic but as everyone knows, it never breaks down by natural means. Wear a mask, as I'm pretty sure that dust in your lungs doesn't have to be toxic to mess you up. I did read that if you burn it, it will release toxins UNLESS it's super hot (forgot the temp), then it burns clean. Or so they say. I'm not sure if that means doing a burnout is ok, or if you need an industrial incinerator.

[Peter Angel]

Does the epoxy resin melt the Styrofoam at all?

[Kilkenny]

Biological art, no less! Very evocative.

[raspero]

Epoxy does not melt Styrofoam. Don't use polyester on it though.

You can use polyester on polyurethane foam. I do a good bit of that in my work. Polyurethane is more expensive, but that is balanced out by the ability to use polyester resin, which not only is less expensive than epoxy, it also sands much easier. Also I find that the polyurethane foam cuts, carves and sands better than Styrofoam; it isn't so crumbly. But stay away from that spray can stuff; that's for the home handyman. Get the cans of two part stuff from your plastics dealer.

I made this from polyurethane foam:



Several things I have found work well:

a sand blaster to rough in the shape.

I brush on thin coats of the mixed liquid foam. It gives a nice crinkly sort of finish. Also you can spread it on with a stick and manipulate it as it begins to set for some different effects. Obviously you have to work fast; this stuff expands and then sets almost immediately. To measure out the foam into small paper cups I use those plastic medicine dropper things (20 cc) they sell in drug stores in the USA in the baby supplies. I think mothers use them to squirt medicine down the throats of unsuspecting babies. Mix a little batch, brush it on, and watch it develop; it's always fascinating to see what will happen. Temperature is another variable. If the cans of foam mix are cold it expands much less, than if the cans are at room temperature, and the reaction is slower as well. It gives you a smoother finish when it's cold. Of course when you are pouring the main beginning block you want it to expand as much as possible.

I keep thinking I am going to do a major piece in this material. Perhaps it's time.

Richard

[AbstractErosion]

Been a long time, and never posted a follow up. Here is another process shot. Finished pics will be on my site in a few days (or more). All of my 2012 stuff just came out of the foundry just before the holidays.