grinder attachment for carving wood

[fifthstop]

I once saw someone using a 4" grinder to carve wood. She had some kind of wheel attached to it that had blades [I believe] perpendicular to the surface of the wheel. The ginder is then applied parallel to the surface of the wood. Removed lots of material but by actually carving/gauging (as opposed to cutting straight lines like you would with a chain saw.)

Anyway, I want one and TCS has never heard of it. Any ideas?

[fused]

Go to a bookstore or library with woodworking magazines and you will find it.
I can't remember the device name, but I've seen several advertised there.

One version is a concave --back towards the grinder-- metal disc with 3 wood plane type cutting blades and the other is more of a shur-form rasp looking disc.

[Chashab]

I'm looking for something similar myself but haven't decided on what.

There is this set of carving tools using chains as in a chainsaw at Grizzly though. I've seen other people using bits, which is more appealing to me. I don't know if routing and shaping bits are made just for sculpting or not, though I've been led to believe they are. Those I don't know where to find. Yet.

[clifton]

The carvers that go on an angle grinder are powerful and offer a lot of control. I'm sure you are aware, but just a reminder to wear kevlon gloves (chainsaw gloves) and a leather or kevlon apron, and use very secure clamps or vise. If the carving moves and the grinder jumps unexpectedly, it could escape your grip. Not something you want flying at your hands or face.

The roughing out part of carving goes much more quickly with the accompanied flying chips, noise, vibration and dust.

I have used the chainsaw type and they work well. I prefer the Arbortech professional version. It is more expensive but if you plan to use it a lot, I think it is a better tool - slightly less agressive but offers more control and works well in the hardest of woods. And less danger of a broken chain if you hit a burried nail. Just remember to frequently tighten the screws that hold the carbide cutters in place.

Many carving supply places offer it. Here is a picture from
Wood Carving Supply.


As to using the router bits for carving I often do that as well. Especially on larger stump carvings or totem poles; that sort of thing. Again this is a good time to wear the protective gloves. It is very easy to experience a severe tear out when using the router bits. But a little practice and working with the wood grain allows for a good removal of wood and bridges the gap between the angle grinder and the smaller rotary tools, or Kutzall / Typhoon type cutters. I use a die grinder and the rounded end bits such as a deep cove, or ball bit. Avoid the square end or sharp edge bits.

Clifton
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[AKoch]

I've been using the wheel that's wrapped in a chain saw chain- I got it here (Italy), so I don't know where you would find it in the US. It works fine, and I'd also recommend heavy gloves, plus a face shield. I had a problem with wood bits clogging up the grinder switch, does anyone have ideas? I glued a bit of flexible plastic over the switch. I have the king size version of the disk, for the larger grinder, but haven't had the courage yet to try it! I have been using the electric chain saw a lot for roughing out. It takes a little getting used to, but now I manage to go quite a ways with it, using a scrubbing action, and also the very end of the saw. It sure beats gouges, especially across grain!

[anatomist1]

Also, be careful using those chainsaw blades on grinders with a paddle-switch. I know of someone who got mangled by one just by setting it down on a table. Plus, you have to partially let go of the tool to turn it off. I don't like those switches even with less dangerous discs attached to the grinder.

[acanthus]

I use the Lancelot chainsaw carvers for large work. (www.katools.com). They make a 2 inch and a 4 inch. Both can be used on edge or on the side and are reasonable safe and very aggressive.

[Chashab]

On vacation a few weeks ago I purchased the King Arthur's Tools chainsaw version. It's pretty slick. There are a lot of additional tips and instructions on their website which are pretty useful. One they they suggest which I don't understand, however, is the use of a universal nut for the grinder.

King Arthur's also has, apparently, an assortment of finishing wheels to accompany this tool. I'd like to get them and try them out as well, but only have so much cash

[Thatch]

I use the Arbor Tech and I grind on very hard wood. I don't have Lancelot but I do have a couple of chain saws and the AT takes about 50 times the amount of grinding before you need to change the teeth.
If you use the safety cover that comes with the tool really isn't that usefull. It is however very dangerous and gloves won't even slow it down. I know because I removed the section of bone and most of the flesh between the middle and outer knuckle of the index finger on my left hand. Big city micro surgeons can do great things, but it hurt like hell and will bother me forever.
AT also makes a mini wheel that has just a bit more control that the large one does without the safety feature. The big one will however remove large amounts of wood very quickly while the small one is only for detail work.
Another tool that is very usefull is a die grinder. They take 1/4 inch shaft rotary bits, so you can use rotary rasps, burrs and sanding cylinders. At 25K RPM though, if you through something out of true it will quickly get metal fatigue in the shaft and can go flying off like a bullet. Consider a rotary rasp to be equivelent to a 50 cal MG bullet in ricochet. Things can get exciting real fast and a good face shield could save you eye or your life. I find that I can't work without one even with the danger.
Another great tool for grinding is, believe it or not, a small handheld revolving belt sander. Another must have and not just for finishing.
I did notice Harbor Freight has a suspended 1/4 horse shaft drive grinder for $70 that you can get a power wood chisel attachment for, for another $20. I am thinking about getting one.
As far as the AT goes, I highly recomend the large wheel with the replacable tungston carbide teeth. You can shave the surface or throw pellets of wood like a BB gun. Wear long sleeves or you will get holes in your arms. Gloves, face mask, goggles, respirator and ear protectors are a must and an apron will protect your groin from the wood pellets.

Thatch

[DWhitey]

I sell the attachments that you are taking about. In fact, I just got set up to sell the product, so it is all pretty new to me. I love mine. There are varying attachments from 13 tooth and 18 tooth chainsaws that attach to the grinder to other levels of carbide grit and shaped attachments. http://darinwhite.wordpress.com/2008...carving-tools/
I don't have my site specifically for these products up yet, but I can get anything related that you require. 785.764.2216 is my mobile.

Let me know if you have any questions. darin.white@gmail.com

[Ironlady]

i heart my Lancelot. But more than that i use a regualr 35 grit flapper wheel- like you would for finishing metal. the cheap ones work the best because they have the least amount of polish in them- plus the grindermarks are then easy to remove with your random orbital. also, have you tried carbide tip on a die grinder? they work great.